From New York to Los Angeles to visiting my old haunts in San Francisco, this piggie ate a lot of good food in 2009. The end of the year invites all kinds of lists. Best Books, Best Movies, Worst Movies, Man/Woman of the Year, and so forth. Without further ado, here are my top 20 dinners of 2009.
Disclaimer: Stress on "dinners," which means that this is not a list of Best Restaurants of 2009. The list is not comprehensive and does not cover a wide spectrum of restaurants. As blog title and subtitle indicate, I eat a lot of French, new American, Japanese, and Korean food. Why are Korean dinners missing from this list? As much as I love Korean food, and I eat it several times a week since moving back down to L.A. in the autumn/winter of 2008, eating stellar soon tofu is not the same as having an amazing tasting at Providence. Just this piggie's opinion. Lastly, a lot of the restaurants represent L.A. and S.F. I had less work trips in NYC this past year, which created less opportunities to eat The Big Apple. :)
20) Angelini Osteria (L.A.) - Lovely dinner, but one serious pasta mistake: the bombolotti for the amatriciana sauce was undercooked. Even so, I was impressed. Great place for rustic Italian food.
19) XIV (L.A.) - A lot of thought went into the elaborate, somewhat chichi decor of Michael Mina's L.A restaurant. If you have visited the SLS Hotel and somebody told you The Bazaar and XIV are both the work of famed industrial and interior designer, Philippe Starck, you will probably nod your head, recognizing the common denominator. At the same time, I will say I prefer XIV because it is simply gorgeous. The inside is all about making a great first impression. Everything and everyone is swathed in firelight, manufacturing a mood of romance that should go in the play book of any guy out to wine and dine the girl of his dreams. Dinner was good with some juicy hits, but a serious flaw. While the dessert was a looker, it did not taste that good. The ice cream was half melted (and I am one of those people who like my ice cream as hard as granite) and the fudge was thick without tasting sinfully rich. I could not finish it, and I ALWAYS clean my dessert plate.
18) Stefan's at The LA Farm (L.A.) - Dinner was great and apparently, Stefan is a celebrity chef having been on Top Chef (which I do not watch; I don't watch any tv lately). The man has showmanship and is a character. I can see him eating up the screen. I ate up his food just fine that night. My scallops dish was the best main. I was not that impressed by the "Big Macs" but they were tasty just the same.
17) AOC (L.A.) - I always have a good time at AOC. I really like the lively and sophisticated vibe. I had a fabulous dinner here a couple nights before Christmas. I started with an unbelievable Sancerre at the bar, one that I would love a crate of. Company was stellar. Service was charming. I love pate. The goat cheese salad was wonderful, as was the lemon tart.
16) LudoBites 3.0 and Royal T Get "In Bed Together" (L.A.) - We ordered everything on the menu. I had food coma that lasted for roughly 1.5 days. The confit pork belly was my favorite savory dish and the Fourme d'Ambert tourte with red pear and honey-balsamic was my favorite dessert.
15) Lucques (L.A.) - Salad of the year for me goes to the heirloom tomatoes salad with burrata that I had at Lucques this past summer. It was recommended by the waiter who stated that the tomatoes taste sublime due to them being in season. Our waiter was terrifically on-point. I cannot stop thinking about how amazingly fresh and naturally sweet perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes taste. Wow.
14) Gary Danko (S.F.) - A delightful birthday dinner, the staff at Gary Danko gets the award for Best Overall Service. From the cellarist to the sommelier to every member of the wait staff, not a personality was missing and all forms of mannerisms and manners simply put us at festive ease. The chestnut mousse that accompanied the lobster salad was eye-opening. Chestnut mousse is incredible!
13) Cafe Jacqueline (S.F.) - After years of wanting to go, I finally made it and I loved it. Souffle for your main and dessert. We chose lobster for the savory and lime for the sweet. Oh my word, lime souffle is out of this world. Tart but not sour, it tastes like freshly shaved lime zest. It is beautiful in the mouth. Pretty to look at, too.
12) La Folie (S.F.) - Friends and I all had the 5-course tasting. Portions are humungous for a fancy-pants, Michelin-starred French restaurant. I am lucky to be back to my original size.
11) Aqua (S.F.) - Interview dinner that went well. Thank goodness I had the presence of mind to not steal bites of interviewer's rose-raspberry almond tart shell filled with rose cream, raspberries, lychee granite, and pistachio creme anglaise when she excused herself to visit the ladies' room. I REALLY wanted to because I polished my plate off rather quickly, followed by a search for bits of pastry shell and filling to pick up with my fork.
10) Restaurant Nishimura (L.A.) - Chef Nishimura knows fresh fish. I was very happy with the line-up he presented that day. Portions are practically microscopic, but they are bites of sashimi heaven.
9) The Modern (NYC) - A fantastic dinner in a quintessentially Manhatten sleek, urbane atmosphere. I had roasted Maine lobster with chanterelles. I love mushrooms, especially chanterelles, thus I was on cloud nine.
8) Jewel Bako (NYC) - The experience was really cool because the venue is one of the most unique I have experienced. Omakase was very nice as well, although it does not best Sushi Yasuda, in my opinion.
7) Zinnia (S.F.) - Really nice set-up, Zinnia is sophisticated but not stuffy at all. The octopus and scallops were excellent.
6) Asanebo (L.A.) - Third tier omakase was a real treat. The lobster sashimi had my eyes rolling.
5) Daniel (NYC) - French food at one of the best will definitely make it on my top five. Sauteed fois gras, sauteed fois gras, sauteed foie gras. It will change your life.
4) The Bar Room at the Modern (NYC) - I love the MOMA, so I especially love that The Bar Room is an excellent establishment with secret views of the captivating sculpture garden. Nothing but the best for our MOMA. We had superb tapas style plates with outstanding awards going to the foie gras torchon and tarte flambee. I cannot wait to go back!
3) LudoBites 2.0 at Breadbar (L.A.) - Chorizo Cantaloupe Cornichon arrived at the table and I was surprised it was not some kind of sausage, but a soup. This was my soup of the year. Brilliant stuff. And the oxtail polenta was the warmest panda bear hug. It would make a grown lumberjack of a man cry for more.
2) Providence (L.A.) - Over the course of 4.5 hours, seventeen dishes were graciously delivered to our table, including a cheese cart. Service was impeccable and marvelously fun. So many mushrooms, including chanterelles. I almost broke out in song.
1) Quince (S.F) - Impressed, I never knew pasta could taste this good. It was seriously "wow." Ravioli so scrupulously stuffed with all kinds of concoctions that were savory with a hint of dessert-sweet. Not one less than stellar note, everything was divine and my taste buds cannot forget.
Friday, January 1, 2010
Thursday, December 31, 2009
NOPA at Midnight
For those of you unfamiliar with San Francisco, NOPA stands for North Of the Panhandle. Thus, they can claim some geographic legitimacy to the neighborhood acronym, although it sounds a wee bit try-hard if you ask me (think Soho, Noho, TriBeca... not). :P
I remember the advent of NOPA. Suddenly, Zuni was easier to get into. Why is this significant? They are two of the few places in the city where you can get a nice square meal at after hours. I will come out and say it. I am on Team Zuni. I think of NOPA as similar, but not as good. That said, variety is the spice of life.
NOPA is an oasis in the San Francisco fog, a beacon of good food for the night owls. I am never surprised when I enter the doors at a quarter to midnight and find it to be a packed house thriving with activity. After all, S.F. is a major city with much to do at night. People get hungry after 10pm. It is baffling and irksome that restaurants close so early (for major city standards). I have had this conversation with friends a million times, both sober and definitely not.
Enter NOPA. It is the answer for late night diners who groan at the idea of Osha or Chinese food (yet again). The food here is pretty good, but nothing that will change your life. (But, they get extra credit for being open until 1am.) The emphasis is on organic, local ingredients, thus they change/mix up the menu frequently. For instance, every time I order the flatbread (essentially, pizza), it comes with a different combination of toppings (some better than others). Two stellar combos comprises of 1) spicy fennel sausage, broccoli, and pomegranate seeds and 2) smoked bacon, gruyere, garlic, and arugula.
Regulars on the menu are the rotisserie chicken and the Moroccan tagine. They are also one of the few eateries that offer grass-fed burgers. Paired with gruyere cheese and a dollop of harissa aioli, it is not a bad way to end the night, although it does not compare to Zuni's burger to my taste buds. The pork chop is probably their best main. Cooked to juicy perfection, it slides off the bone with slippery ease. Always.
I love the desserts, which include pecan tart with "smoke & whisky" ice cream, warm bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream, and ginger cake with Nocino cream (cream made from an Italian liquor with an aromatic, bittersweet taste, bellissima!).
The cocktails are a lot of fun and, like the rest of the menu, change with the seasons and availability of ingredients. Their list of spirits can send people over the edge. From high quality rum to bourbon and rye to single malt whisky, NOPA has it. The wine list is sure to please, as it ranges from classic West Coast reliables from Napa, Bonny Doon, and Willamette to Chianti Classicos and French cab franc.
As for the interior, it matches the cuisine to the "t": refined yet rustic, open with high ceilings yet warm and inviting with its neighborhood-themed murals and solid oak tables and benches. If it is too busy--and it often is even at midnight--sit at the bar where you can watch the cooks hustle in an open kitchen that adds fire (literally, to some extent, since you can watch them insert flatbread and meats into the wood-fired ovens) and life to an otherwise casual but sophisticated meal.
NOPA
560 Divisadero St.
San Francisco, CA 94117
(415) 864-8643
http://www.nopasf.com/
I remember the advent of NOPA. Suddenly, Zuni was easier to get into. Why is this significant? They are two of the few places in the city where you can get a nice square meal at after hours. I will come out and say it. I am on Team Zuni. I think of NOPA as similar, but not as good. That said, variety is the spice of life.
NOPA is an oasis in the San Francisco fog, a beacon of good food for the night owls. I am never surprised when I enter the doors at a quarter to midnight and find it to be a packed house thriving with activity. After all, S.F. is a major city with much to do at night. People get hungry after 10pm. It is baffling and irksome that restaurants close so early (for major city standards). I have had this conversation with friends a million times, both sober and definitely not.
Enter NOPA. It is the answer for late night diners who groan at the idea of Osha or Chinese food (yet again). The food here is pretty good, but nothing that will change your life. (But, they get extra credit for being open until 1am.) The emphasis is on organic, local ingredients, thus they change/mix up the menu frequently. For instance, every time I order the flatbread (essentially, pizza), it comes with a different combination of toppings (some better than others). Two stellar combos comprises of 1) spicy fennel sausage, broccoli, and pomegranate seeds and 2) smoked bacon, gruyere, garlic, and arugula.
Regulars on the menu are the rotisserie chicken and the Moroccan tagine. They are also one of the few eateries that offer grass-fed burgers. Paired with gruyere cheese and a dollop of harissa aioli, it is not a bad way to end the night, although it does not compare to Zuni's burger to my taste buds. The pork chop is probably their best main. Cooked to juicy perfection, it slides off the bone with slippery ease. Always.
I love the desserts, which include pecan tart with "smoke & whisky" ice cream, warm bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream, and ginger cake with Nocino cream (cream made from an Italian liquor with an aromatic, bittersweet taste, bellissima!).
The cocktails are a lot of fun and, like the rest of the menu, change with the seasons and availability of ingredients. Their list of spirits can send people over the edge. From high quality rum to bourbon and rye to single malt whisky, NOPA has it. The wine list is sure to please, as it ranges from classic West Coast reliables from Napa, Bonny Doon, and Willamette to Chianti Classicos and French cab franc.
As for the interior, it matches the cuisine to the "t": refined yet rustic, open with high ceilings yet warm and inviting with its neighborhood-themed murals and solid oak tables and benches. If it is too busy--and it often is even at midnight--sit at the bar where you can watch the cooks hustle in an open kitchen that adds fire (literally, to some extent, since you can watch them insert flatbread and meats into the wood-fired ovens) and life to an otherwise casual but sophisticated meal.
NOPA
560 Divisadero St.
San Francisco, CA 94117
(415) 864-8643
http://www.nopasf.com/
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Angelini Osteria: A Neighborhood Gem
It has taken me too long to visit this neighborhood gem. Angelini Osteria is located on Beverly Blvd., a street that I have traversed with great frequency (the Beverly Center was my designated shopping mall when I was a tween and teen). It is a street that I know very well. Ten years ago, Beverly Blvd. was a bit of a wasteland, but now wonderful restaurants line the streets interspersed by small label designer boutiques and avant-garde furniture shops.
The restaurant is compact and bustling. There is an outdoor patio that would be a lovely place to have dinner in the summer or for sunny SoCal winters. From my window seat, I have a view of Milk, diagonally across the street. Angelini Osteria is a place about eating good food, enjoying a nice red, and sharing bites and conversation with your neighbors (whose table will possibly be, literally, less than one foot away, so unneighborly people, be warned!)
The complimentary bread basket is filled with anything but filler. The thin crispy flat bread is amazingly tasty. With every bubbly crunch, you get nips of salt and hints of toasted butter. I am pretty sure I love it more than my friend. I cannot resist chomping on it until they are all gone. A quick glance at our neighbors' bread basket makes me realize that you start with a generous pile of crisps to begin with. eep! No matter, it does not ruin this trooper's appetite. :P
Ever since having the salad of the year for me--Lucques' heirloom tomato salad with burrata--when I see this veggie/cheese combination, I hear "ding ding ding!" Angelini Osteria's caprese with heirloom tomatoes and burrata does not disappoint, but it does not best Lucques' by any stretch of the imagination. Salads come and go, but Lucques' made an indelible impression. But, I digress.
The heirloom tomatoes are not as ripe as they could and should be. Because when heirloom tomatoes are perfectly ripe, they achieve the perfection of preternatural fresh sweetness, a taste that you cannot get sick of, the flavor of your ideal breath mints, chewing gum, cough syrup. You want to replicate it until you emit it from your own breath. This all said, Angelini Osteria's is very nice and the burrata has a lovely coolness and cuts easily with a butter knife.
For pasta number two, we select bombolotti alla amatriciana for some flavor contrast. It is a ribbed tubular pasta coated with a deep-flavored tomato sauce prepared with guanciale (unsmoked dried pork cheek) and hot peppers for a dash of spice. The sauce is a savory win, but the pasta, unfortunately, is unevenly cooked (some of the tubes are frankly hard, too much resistence "to the tooth"; al dente literally means "to the tooth").
The restaurant is compact and bustling. There is an outdoor patio that would be a lovely place to have dinner in the summer or for sunny SoCal winters. From my window seat, I have a view of Milk, diagonally across the street. Angelini Osteria is a place about eating good food, enjoying a nice red, and sharing bites and conversation with your neighbors (whose table will possibly be, literally, less than one foot away, so unneighborly people, be warned!)
The complimentary bread basket is filled with anything but filler. The thin crispy flat bread is amazingly tasty. With every bubbly crunch, you get nips of salt and hints of toasted butter. I am pretty sure I love it more than my friend. I cannot resist chomping on it until they are all gone. A quick glance at our neighbors' bread basket makes me realize that you start with a generous pile of crisps to begin with. eep! No matter, it does not ruin this trooper's appetite. :P
Ever since having the salad of the year for me--Lucques' heirloom tomato salad with burrata--when I see this veggie/cheese combination, I hear "ding ding ding!" Angelini Osteria's caprese with heirloom tomatoes and burrata does not disappoint, but it does not best Lucques' by any stretch of the imagination. Salads come and go, but Lucques' made an indelible impression. But, I digress.
The heirloom tomatoes are not as ripe as they could and should be. Because when heirloom tomatoes are perfectly ripe, they achieve the perfection of preternatural fresh sweetness, a taste that you cannot get sick of, the flavor of your ideal breath mints, chewing gum, cough syrup. You want to replicate it until you emit it from your own breath. This all said, Angelini Osteria's is very nice and the burrata has a lovely coolness and cuts easily with a butter knife.
caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes and burrata
My friend relays to me that the lasagna verde is a favorite. She is right on the money. With a wonderful homemade taste, it has a fabulous meat to tomato sauce ratio, creating a perfect square that cuts with moist ease. Veneered by a layer of nicely browned, crispy-chewy cheese and showered with spinach leaf crisps, it is remarkably filling.
lasagna verde "Omaggio Nonna Elvira"
For pasta number two, we select bombolotti alla amatriciana for some flavor contrast. It is a ribbed tubular pasta coated with a deep-flavored tomato sauce prepared with guanciale (unsmoked dried pork cheek) and hot peppers for a dash of spice. The sauce is a savory win, but the pasta, unfortunately, is unevenly cooked (some of the tubes are frankly hard, too much resistence "to the tooth"; al dente literally means "to the tooth").
bombolotti alla amatriciana
At this point, I am feeling the takeover of carbs in my ballooning belly. I sip my wine and sink into my chair, dreaming about dessert. However, instead of the desserts menu, what should appear before me, but a beautiful arranged plate of the secondi.
branzino roasted in sea salt with vegetables and mashed potato (split into two plates)
I completely forgot about the branzino! The waiter breaks the salt crust and filets it onto your plate, but I either missed it (due to becoming a bleary-eyed beluga) or we missed out. I will explicitly ask for this tableside performance next time because I love tableside shows. *clap clap clap*
The fish is clearly cooked to moist perfection, breaking apart with the ease of your nondominant hand. Flavorful flakes take turns joining green beans, broccoli crowns, and cauliflower on my fork, all seasoned with palatable expertise.
My friend is game for the panna cotta. Whenever I see it on the menu at a reputable place, I like to give it a go, wanting to compare it to my benchmark. Angelini Osteria's is a vanilla bean panna cotta served with blackberries and strawberries. Vanilla bean is always such a delight and Angelini Osteria's is ultra welcoming with its beauteous flecks of black. Although it does not best Delfina's in S.F., my benchmark, and is more watery than what I am used to, the vanilla bean flavor comes through and, all in all, works as a great palate cleanser.
vanilla bean panna cotta with blackberries and strawberries
The one misstep of dinner is the undercooked bombolotti. But, the authentic vibe and aromas of the restaurant hit me on the head as soon as I walked in, followed by a rather awkward hovering at the small entranceway while they set up our table.
In short, Angelini Osteria is a warm, lovingly traditional, and intimate restaurant that can get loud and with not much leg room to spare. If that is not your speed, maybe try Gino Angelini's other restaurant on W. 3rd St. I went to the now closed La Terza, also owned by Angelini, and I was not impressed; I MUCH prefer Angelini Osteria. Personally, I think the cozy set-up suits the rustic Italian menu and I love a nice neighborhood restaurant that can get neighborly. The fact that this exists in L.A., far from being a city of neighborhoods let alone being neighborly has me a little flummoxed. :) A winning experience for me, I will be back for the spaghetti alla carbonara and crostata di Marmellata.
Angelini Osteria
7313 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 297-0070
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Delfina: You Always Remember Your First
Delfina was my first San Francisco restaurant, and although it is no longer the consistent delight of yesteryear, I can still count on it for a lovely northern Italian meal.
First and foremost, no restaurant has even come close to the perfection of their buttermilk panna cotta. It strides the perfect line between sweet and tangy. Accompanied with seasonal fruits (I have had it with kumquats, pomegranate, strawberries, fresh berries), it is a deceptively simple dessert that is difficult to get just right.
Their profiteroles are great as well, but I have had just as great at many other places (Chapeau! and Capannina come to mind). But, their panna cotta... I get lost in reverie when I think of the panna cotta.
My favorite dishes at Delfina are the very simple ones. The spaghetti with nothing but plum tomatoes, pepperoncini, garlic, and extra virgin oil is simply perfect. Clearly an elementary dish and something that I can make at home, so not an item I will normally order, but it is just soooooo good and satisfying. The house-made pasta is cooked perfectly al dente and all you taste is the freshness of the ingredients.
The balsamic vinegrette drizzled salad of bitter greens, pancetta, and walnuts is mystifyingly flavorful and aromatic, like being showered with fresh herbs from Provence. The iceberg lettuce with gorgonzola is crisp and crunchy accompanied by a perfect punch of pungency. One of the best I have ever had, the house-pulled mozzarella is so soft, creamy cool with just enough elasticity. It is simply amazing. With a growing reputation, their grilled calamari sits on a bed of warm baked beans and is absolutely to die for.
Seasoned just right, the delicate-sized roasted chicken with Yukon potatoes provides tenderloving bites. Their sweet breads are wonderful as well. Nothing tastes as fresh-off-the-hook as the albacore with cranberry beans and salsa verde when it is in season.
For those of you who like tripe, their tripe alla Fiorentina is supposed to be excellent. As my foodie friend says, she loves that she can have tripe at a nice restaurant.
The wine list is small and selective. Service is friendly, prompt, and always helpful. They are always busy and the tables seem to get closer together every year, so definitely make reservations. You can eat at the bar, but even then, expect to wait at least thirty minutes for weekend dinner. Weeknights are relatively busy, too.
I have lost count as to how many times I have been here. Apart from Korean and Japanese food (which I grew up eating), Delfina is the restaurant that I cut my taste buds at. It will always remain one of my personal favorites. Once I jaunted over here after dinner at The Blue Plate because ending dinner with their perfect buttermilk panna cotta sounded ideal. 'Twas. A neighborhood restaurant within walking distance of Dolores Park, Delfina is part of the holy trinity of piggie heaven (Tartine, Bi-Rite Creamery, Delfina). Call me a little sentimental, but I always have gastrointestinal room for my first.
Delfina
3621 18th St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 552-4055
http://www.delfinasf.com/
First and foremost, no restaurant has even come close to the perfection of their buttermilk panna cotta. It strides the perfect line between sweet and tangy. Accompanied with seasonal fruits (I have had it with kumquats, pomegranate, strawberries, fresh berries), it is a deceptively simple dessert that is difficult to get just right.
One of my favorite desserts of all time, Delfina's buttermilk panna cotta. Here served with seasonal kumquats.
Their profiteroles are great as well, but I have had just as great at many other places (Chapeau! and Capannina come to mind). But, their panna cotta... I get lost in reverie when I think of the panna cotta.
My favorite dishes at Delfina are the very simple ones. The spaghetti with nothing but plum tomatoes, pepperoncini, garlic, and extra virgin oil is simply perfect. Clearly an elementary dish and something that I can make at home, so not an item I will normally order, but it is just soooooo good and satisfying. The house-made pasta is cooked perfectly al dente and all you taste is the freshness of the ingredients.
spaghetti with plum tomatoes
The balsamic vinegrette drizzled salad of bitter greens, pancetta, and walnuts is mystifyingly flavorful and aromatic, like being showered with fresh herbs from Provence. The iceberg lettuce with gorgonzola is crisp and crunchy accompanied by a perfect punch of pungency. One of the best I have ever had, the house-pulled mozzarella is so soft, creamy cool with just enough elasticity. It is simply amazing. With a growing reputation, their grilled calamari sits on a bed of warm baked beans and is absolutely to die for.
grilled calamari served over baked beans
Seasoned just right, the delicate-sized roasted chicken with Yukon potatoes provides tenderloving bites. Their sweet breads are wonderful as well. Nothing tastes as fresh-off-the-hook as the albacore with cranberry beans and salsa verde when it is in season.
For those of you who like tripe, their tripe alla Fiorentina is supposed to be excellent. As my foodie friend says, she loves that she can have tripe at a nice restaurant.
The wine list is small and selective. Service is friendly, prompt, and always helpful. They are always busy and the tables seem to get closer together every year, so definitely make reservations. You can eat at the bar, but even then, expect to wait at least thirty minutes for weekend dinner. Weeknights are relatively busy, too.
I have lost count as to how many times I have been here. Apart from Korean and Japanese food (which I grew up eating), Delfina is the restaurant that I cut my taste buds at. It will always remain one of my personal favorites. Once I jaunted over here after dinner at The Blue Plate because ending dinner with their perfect buttermilk panna cotta sounded ideal. 'Twas. A neighborhood restaurant within walking distance of Dolores Park, Delfina is part of the holy trinity of piggie heaven (Tartine, Bi-Rite Creamery, Delfina). Call me a little sentimental, but I always have gastrointestinal room for my first.
Delfina
3621 18th St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 552-4055
http://www.delfinasf.com/
Providence Fulfills Its Promise
Dinner was epic. No exaggeration, it lasted 4.5 hours. It began at 6 PM and I got home at 11 PM. Afterwards, he fell back in his chair and sighed, "Ji chyuh suh (exhausted, no more!)" I just beamed, smiling from ear to ear.
He asked me where I wanted to go and I timidly relayed that number one on my wish list was Providence. He told me that it sounded good. I replied that it was too expensive; I told him to take his mom. He bellowed, "My mom would hate it!" She is Korean, as is mine. My mom would love it, but I can understand what he meant because my dad would hate the formality, the much-ado-about-food, the complexity of simply eating for sustenance. He declared, "We'll go to Providence." It was a first date. :)))
This is how I got treated to the chef's tasting menu, which required me to use all ten fingers and seven toes to keep track of everything that came out of the kitchen with amazing aplomb and delightful yet unobtrusive attention. Service was 10 stars. They know how to treat you like a lady and make one blush something marvelous.
Providence serves some of the best bread I have ever had at a fancy establishment. Warm brioche with baked-in bacon bits. It is amazing with the house-churned butter.
1) Amuse bouche trio - The signature now famous mojito gelee that bursts into your mouth with true mojito flavor, gin and tonic cube that you drizzle with lime juice to get it to fizz like a science experiment, and a mini beer mug of lovely carrot soup. Awesome, tasty start that made me excited for more culinary fun of the first order.
2) Kanpachi - Accompanied by crispy rice crackers, sitting artfully in a pool of whipped smooth soy creme fraiche, the julienned kanpachi was top-notch with perfect firm texture. Delicious.
3) Scallop with black truffle and shimeji mushrooms - Great mushrooms and the best scallop I have ever had in my young epicurean lifetime, it was of pristine quality and here is the kicker: they actually cooked it right. It was not overcooked, which is so often the case, a good sign for sure that the kitchen was in talented, expert hands.
4) Fois gras ravioli - Oh. My. Word. I love fois gras, black truffle, and cheese, so this unison had my eyes rolling, the legacy of which is my now incredibly attractive lazy eye. :P
5) Halibut with balsamic - With a wonderfully moist texture, again, just perfectly cooked.
6) Turbot - Paired with burdock roots and aromatic shiso, this dish betrayed a distinct Asian influence and had a beautiful balance to it.
7) Salmon with matsutake mushrooms and sake foam - The stop-in-your-tracks brilliant mushrooms outshined the flavorful salmon and crispy skin. The hints of sake in the sauce were a nice touch.
8) Lobster with shiitake mushrooms - I loved how Chef Cimarusti turned to mushrooms (and truffle) all night to accessorize. Succulent and juicy lobster with super tender mushrooms. Definitely memorable.
9) Tenderloin of veal with chanterelles - Accompanied by a celery root puree, the veal was amazingly cooked sous vide. It truly disintegrated in my mouth and the gorgeous chanterelles performed an aria in their wake. Outstanding, I was on my feet chanting, "Encore!"
10) The cheese cart - Our cheese expert could not have been sweeter and he supplied us with pungent slices of heaven. Very nice selection of blues, gorgonzola dolce, goat, brie, raclette, and gruyere paired with jams, candied hazelnuts and walnuts, and dried fruits, including fig which I love, this was a lovely intercession separating the entrees from the desserts.
14) Milk chocolate panna cotta with Kahlua sauce - I had something similar to this at La Mill Coffee House, where the menu is, in fact, designed by Cimarusti and Adrian Vasquez (pastry chef at Providence), too. For whatever reason, it tasted better here. Panna cotta accompanied by coconut strands and glazed, toasted almond slices and everything was impeccably embellished by a divine Kahlua syrup.
An exceptional dinner experience, I was impressed. However, I would redecorate. While the outside takes the classic road with neat lines of lights, weird tortellini-looking attachments are suction-cupped all over the inside walls.
He asked me where I wanted to go and I timidly relayed that number one on my wish list was Providence. He told me that it sounded good. I replied that it was too expensive; I told him to take his mom. He bellowed, "My mom would hate it!" She is Korean, as is mine. My mom would love it, but I can understand what he meant because my dad would hate the formality, the much-ado-about-food, the complexity of simply eating for sustenance. He declared, "We'll go to Providence." It was a first date. :)))
This is how I got treated to the chef's tasting menu, which required me to use all ten fingers and seven toes to keep track of everything that came out of the kitchen with amazing aplomb and delightful yet unobtrusive attention. Service was 10 stars. They know how to treat you like a lady and make one blush something marvelous.
Providence serves some of the best bread I have ever had at a fancy establishment. Warm brioche with baked-in bacon bits. It is amazing with the house-churned butter.
1) Amuse bouche trio - The signature now famous mojito gelee that bursts into your mouth with true mojito flavor, gin and tonic cube that you drizzle with lime juice to get it to fizz like a science experiment, and a mini beer mug of lovely carrot soup. Awesome, tasty start that made me excited for more culinary fun of the first order.
2) Kanpachi - Accompanied by crispy rice crackers, sitting artfully in a pool of whipped smooth soy creme fraiche, the julienned kanpachi was top-notch with perfect firm texture. Delicious.
3) Scallop with black truffle and shimeji mushrooms - Great mushrooms and the best scallop I have ever had in my young epicurean lifetime, it was of pristine quality and here is the kicker: they actually cooked it right. It was not overcooked, which is so often the case, a good sign for sure that the kitchen was in talented, expert hands.
4) Fois gras ravioli - Oh. My. Word. I love fois gras, black truffle, and cheese, so this unison had my eyes rolling, the legacy of which is my now incredibly attractive lazy eye. :P
5) Halibut with balsamic - With a wonderfully moist texture, again, just perfectly cooked.
6) Turbot - Paired with burdock roots and aromatic shiso, this dish betrayed a distinct Asian influence and had a beautiful balance to it.
7) Salmon with matsutake mushrooms and sake foam - The stop-in-your-tracks brilliant mushrooms outshined the flavorful salmon and crispy skin. The hints of sake in the sauce were a nice touch.
8) Lobster with shiitake mushrooms - I loved how Chef Cimarusti turned to mushrooms (and truffle) all night to accessorize. Succulent and juicy lobster with super tender mushrooms. Definitely memorable.
9) Tenderloin of veal with chanterelles - Accompanied by a celery root puree, the veal was amazingly cooked sous vide. It truly disintegrated in my mouth and the gorgeous chanterelles performed an aria in their wake. Outstanding, I was on my feet chanting, "Encore!"
delivered from cheese cart
12) Kalamansi gelee with litchi-shiso sorbet - Marvelously inventive and uber delectable, lychee jelly underpinned shiso-flavored sorbet, both of which sat in a moat of white chocolate coconut soy milk with tapioca pearls. The different textures (cool sorbet, bouncy jelly, chocolate soup, chewy tapioca) and different flavors collided deliciously in my mouth.
13) Basil ice cream with marshmallows and candied pecans - Reminiscent of basil, this was paired with fresh strawberries and a playful mix of house-made marshmallows and candied pecans. My taste buds were giddy.
An exceptional dinner experience, I was impressed. However, I would redecorate. While the outside takes the classic road with neat lines of lights, weird tortellini-looking attachments are suction-cupped all over the inside walls.
Tell me that does not look like tortellini.
Great airy space, otherwise. First-class service, first-class experience, Providence is one of only four restaurants in Los Angeles with two Michelin stars (the others are Melisse, Spago, and Urasawa). I cannot wait to come back! Incidentally, at the moment, my sweet tooth is having a staring contest with the 8-course dessert tasting. O_O
Providence
5955 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90038
http://www.providencela.com/
Providence
5955 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90038
http://www.providencela.com/
Monday, December 21, 2009
Cafe Jacqueline: Simply Souffle
Before I return to my creator, I am going to get a souffle superlatively right even if it kills me. My dinner at Cafe Jacqueline has steeled my resolve. Wonderful savory and sweet souffles are worth the meticulous trouble in the kitchen. Or in Jacqueline's case, kitchenette. The kitchen where this quintessential French lady whips up souffle after souffle all by herself is tiny.
Perched in one of the most touristy neighborhoods in San Francisco, North Beach, Cafe Jacqueline is far from a cliche. It is a very personal restaurant--absolutely quaint, charming, and unassumingly romantic. I adore it and it is my latest favorite nook in the city.
The first thing you will notice is that the candlelit room is very warm from continuous baking. Then, that smell... The smell of sublime gruyere fragrances the room, as if to announce that without it the savory souffles cannot exist. I believe gruyere graces everything that it touches, so I am beside myself with glee.
After about one hour (they are made right after ordering so expect to spend at least two to three hours here, depending on whether you opt for dessert), our savory lobster souffle arrives. Neither dry nor runny, baked to a beautiful golden brown, the waiter divides it into portions. It is more akin to a delicious garlicky pastry flavored subtly with lobster rather than an obvious lobster entree. No complaints, just an observation. Chunks of lobster are more than evident and the whole thing is just a buttery, smooth delight. One order is A LOT of food and we struggle to finish it. It is not like we can take home leftovers and zap it in the microwave for a quick breakfast or midnight snack. Well, I guess we can, but I have yet to learn the mechanics of resuscitating deflated souffle.
I quite like that I now have a place that I can turn to when I want an expertly prepared souffle. Sub-par souffle is either like having dry, stale quiche or runny pudding. Both suck donkey balls. In addition, seeing that I am used to Korean restaurant specialization (a designated place for soondubu, sul lung tung, kalguksu), I really appreciate that Jacqueline specializes and devotes her skills to the creation of the perfect souffle.
Perched in one of the most touristy neighborhoods in San Francisco, North Beach, Cafe Jacqueline is far from a cliche. It is a very personal restaurant--absolutely quaint, charming, and unassumingly romantic. I adore it and it is my latest favorite nook in the city.
The first thing you will notice is that the candlelit room is very warm from continuous baking. Then, that smell... The smell of sublime gruyere fragrances the room, as if to announce that without it the savory souffles cannot exist. I believe gruyere graces everything that it touches, so I am beside myself with glee.
After about one hour (they are made right after ordering so expect to spend at least two to three hours here, depending on whether you opt for dessert), our savory lobster souffle arrives. Neither dry nor runny, baked to a beautiful golden brown, the waiter divides it into portions. It is more akin to a delicious garlicky pastry flavored subtly with lobster rather than an obvious lobster entree. No complaints, just an observation. Chunks of lobster are more than evident and the whole thing is just a buttery, smooth delight. One order is A LOT of food and we struggle to finish it. It is not like we can take home leftovers and zap it in the microwave for a quick breakfast or midnight snack. Well, I guess we can, but I have yet to learn the mechanics of resuscitating deflated souffle.
lobster souffle
For dessert, one of the best things I have tasted all year, lime souffle. Oh. My. Word. This is AMAZING. Think of freshly shaved lime zest. It tastes exactly the way slivers of fresh lime zest smells--that wonderfully tart but not sour, subtly candy sweet, sparklingly citrussy scent. Plus, it is gorgeous--a powdered sugar winter wonderland flecked with dots of emerald green.
Easily one of the best desserts I have ever consumed, lime souffle.
Sinking your spoon into this air-whipped masterpiece is one of the most indulgent activites. As your spoon resurfaces, you will find this piping hot bite of what looks like a cross between green apple pie and shattered meringue. But, make no mistake, it will taste like unadulterated lime. It is glorious. I am so glad they ran out of strawberry (I love strawberries so I had my eye on that one), so that we could try this unexpected superstar.
The aftermath. Not as pretty.
A friend of mine recommended Cafe Jacqueline to me years and years ago. It has taken me way too long to visit. On the bright side, having lime souffle is an eye-opening wonder.
A lot of people will probably nitpick (you cannot please everyone, ever) and say they have had better souffes (in Paris, for example; yo, it's Paris!), yada yada yada, well, I think she does a marvelous job. Prepare for a European-paced (the very opposite of getting your soon tofu in ten minutes and being out of the joint in thirty), uber leisurely meal. Jacqueline makes every single souffle herself from scratch so this place is a time commitment. For those on a clock, with people to see and things to do, do not come here. You will have a stress-related hernia.
Granted, one can get souffled-out, so for those of you who want to consume more than, well, inflated air, it might be a good idea to just come here for dessert. For those of you who are used to something more substantial, like Korean barbeque, souffle is not for you. :P I personally love them all--both the savory and sweet--and cannot wait to make my way down all the options. Chanterelle, crab, Grand Marnier, chocolate, and, of course, strawberry! With my work cut out for me, this is going to be one of the most delicious missions yet. :)
Cafe Jacqueline
1454 Grant Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 981-5565
The Blue Plate: Good American Comfort Food
During my last extended stay in San Francisco, I made an explicit point of going to Blue Plate for their gourmet macaroni with drunken Spanish goat cheese. No exaggeration, I actually dreamt that I was eating it after some disappointing mac and cheese at a string of restaurants in Los Angeles. The best being at Bar Food in Santa Monica, average at The Must in Downtown, and the worst at Lemonade in Beverly Hills. On the bright side, their combined mediocrity summoned Blue Plate's mac and cheese to my drooling dreams. Either that, or I went to bed starving.
Hence, I journeyed to the end of the world (Bernal Heights) from Russian Hill. I was raised in L.A. I can count how many times I have been on a bus on my left hand (am including Peter Pan from D.C. to NYC). Bernal Heights is FAR. True, Blue Plate fits in nicely with the street-casual, down-to-earth neighborhood, but I really went out of my way to come here. Plus, did I mention that we had 10 PM reservations at Quince? :D :D :D I rang my friend around 5 PM and told him that I had a brilliant idea. Since our Quince ressies are late, why don't we go to Blue Plate for only the mac and cheese to tide us over? He was game.
We sat at the bar. This was a TERRIBLE idea. Blue Plate has an open kitchen and we ended up watching the owner do last minute checks on all of the plates before they went to the designated tables. Dishes like gnocchi with red wine braised short ribs, sardine bruschetta with olive tapenade, and this killer appetizer of grilled squid. We could barely sit still. Everything looked lick-your-plate delicious. My friend and I took turns reminding each other that we had 10 PM Quince ressies and even we, two piggies, could not wobble into Quince full. We are piggies after all, not cows, thus do not actually have back-up stomachs. That is a figure of speech.
As we exerted will power at full force, our dish arrived. It looked like a beaut. As far as taste, I will admit that it tasted better in my dreams. I am afraid it does not beat mine. Far from rocket science, I can make a pretty good one (the secret is truffle). Until I find a restaurant that makes it better, Blue Plate's will just have to do.
The macaroni was a bit overcooked. Another problem might have been that I did not have the mac and cheese with the meatloaf. Something about these two classic comfort foods together brings out the best of each.
Speaking of the meatloaf, this last visit was the only time I did not order it. It is a Blue Plate special and it single-handedly made a meatloaf convert out of me. The only time I had it before was in the school cafetaria in elementary school. Memory is muy no bueno. But, Blue Plate's is tasty. On top of that, it is a generous serving for so dense a meal. I can never finish it and I usually clean my plate. It comes with mashed potatoes and a side of the veggies du jour. A responsible restaurant that takes pride in using organic, seasonal ingredients, the menu regularly rotates, but they always have the meatloaf.
Meats are all cooked in a traditional, homey, slow-cooked style. The pork chop is nice. The pastas are solid, though not always cooked al dente. On the other hand, the gnocchi are heavenly pillows.
For dessert, I usually go somewhere else. Keeping up with the cuisine type, it is updated traditional American with the inevitable injection of nouveau Californian. A lot of pies and cobbler type of sweets. I have more of a European desserts fetish or full-fat (none of that nonfat crap) ice cream, gelato, or Pinkberry will do.
The wine list is legit. Lots of range for half bottles--from Willamette pinot to Grand Cru Bordeaux to Chateaneuf-du-Pape to sassy, herbaceous sauvignon blancs. A global choice for bottles, but not too many choices by the glass.
The environment is very low-key and casual with forgiving, dim lighting. It is a nice place to have dinner and catch up with friends or works as a last minute, casual choice for you and your honey.
A lot of people complain about the service, but I have always been pleased. On my last visit with the mac and cheese only stop, our server could not have been sweeter. We explained that we had 10pm Quince reservations and did not want to ruin our appetites so we intended to just share one dish and have some wine. She was not only understanding, she revved up our enthusiasm by exclaiming that the pasta at Quince is amazing and her favorite. How cool is that! Honest praise for another restaurant.
It really is a pill to trek over to Bernal Heights, but Russian Hill does NOT need another good restaurant. Parking would be a hair-pulling nightmare! When in nearby Mission, I will pencil Blue Plate in.
The Blue Plate
3218 Mission St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 282-6777
http://www.blueplatesf.com/
Hence, I journeyed to the end of the world (Bernal Heights) from Russian Hill. I was raised in L.A. I can count how many times I have been on a bus on my left hand (am including Peter Pan from D.C. to NYC). Bernal Heights is FAR. True, Blue Plate fits in nicely with the street-casual, down-to-earth neighborhood, but I really went out of my way to come here. Plus, did I mention that we had 10 PM reservations at Quince? :D :D :D I rang my friend around 5 PM and told him that I had a brilliant idea. Since our Quince ressies are late, why don't we go to Blue Plate for only the mac and cheese to tide us over? He was game.
We sat at the bar. This was a TERRIBLE idea. Blue Plate has an open kitchen and we ended up watching the owner do last minute checks on all of the plates before they went to the designated tables. Dishes like gnocchi with red wine braised short ribs, sardine bruschetta with olive tapenade, and this killer appetizer of grilled squid. We could barely sit still. Everything looked lick-your-plate delicious. My friend and I took turns reminding each other that we had 10 PM Quince ressies and even we, two piggies, could not wobble into Quince full. We are piggies after all, not cows, thus do not actually have back-up stomachs. That is a figure of speech.
As we exerted will power at full force, our dish arrived. It looked like a beaut. As far as taste, I will admit that it tasted better in my dreams. I am afraid it does not beat mine. Far from rocket science, I can make a pretty good one (the secret is truffle). Until I find a restaurant that makes it better, Blue Plate's will just have to do.
macaroni with drunken Spanish goat cheese
Speaking of the meatloaf, this last visit was the only time I did not order it. It is a Blue Plate special and it single-handedly made a meatloaf convert out of me. The only time I had it before was in the school cafetaria in elementary school. Memory is muy no bueno. But, Blue Plate's is tasty. On top of that, it is a generous serving for so dense a meal. I can never finish it and I usually clean my plate. It comes with mashed potatoes and a side of the veggies du jour. A responsible restaurant that takes pride in using organic, seasonal ingredients, the menu regularly rotates, but they always have the meatloaf.
Meats are all cooked in a traditional, homey, slow-cooked style. The pork chop is nice. The pastas are solid, though not always cooked al dente. On the other hand, the gnocchi are heavenly pillows.
For dessert, I usually go somewhere else. Keeping up with the cuisine type, it is updated traditional American with the inevitable injection of nouveau Californian. A lot of pies and cobbler type of sweets. I have more of a European desserts fetish or full-fat (none of that nonfat crap) ice cream, gelato, or Pinkberry will do.
The wine list is legit. Lots of range for half bottles--from Willamette pinot to Grand Cru Bordeaux to Chateaneuf-du-Pape to sassy, herbaceous sauvignon blancs. A global choice for bottles, but not too many choices by the glass.
The environment is very low-key and casual with forgiving, dim lighting. It is a nice place to have dinner and catch up with friends or works as a last minute, casual choice for you and your honey.
A lot of people complain about the service, but I have always been pleased. On my last visit with the mac and cheese only stop, our server could not have been sweeter. We explained that we had 10pm Quince reservations and did not want to ruin our appetites so we intended to just share one dish and have some wine. She was not only understanding, she revved up our enthusiasm by exclaiming that the pasta at Quince is amazing and her favorite. How cool is that! Honest praise for another restaurant.
It really is a pill to trek over to Bernal Heights, but Russian Hill does NOT need another good restaurant. Parking would be a hair-pulling nightmare! When in nearby Mission, I will pencil Blue Plate in.
The Blue Plate
3218 Mission St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 282-6777
http://www.blueplatesf.com/
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Not Bad, But I Don't Get the Excitement
We have all been there. There is a place that is a virtual crowd favorite. We finally get to go, and instead of it being like watching Casablanca for the first time, we just stare at our plate, bowl, utensil, waiting for the magic. No magic. On account of friends who love the place, we visit again. Again, instead of it being like watching Citizen Kane for the second time (do it, it will dawn on you as even more brilliant), we grumble about the wait, the claustrophobia, the much-ado-about-not-much. Let me be clear: Nothing is bad. Bad is this. Everything is okay, certainly edible, but you sit there, alone in your lack of excitement as you clean up your plate, thinking about all of the hungry children in Africa. Eating out of obligation is simply no fun. As lucky citizens of a wealthy nation, we have all been there.
Mr. Pizza Factory
Call me narrow-minded, but Koreans should not be making pizza. That is like Italians making kimchi jjigae. It sounds easy enough, since both items comprise of fairly simple ingredients, but if you are sensitive to what a killer pizza and a great kimchi jjigae can taste like, you would make this kind of transcultural activity criminal. As you can tell, I am not a fan of Mr. Pizza. I do not care for it when I am at the original location in Seoul near Ehwa University, and I certainly do not care for it when I am in the States with its shameless 50% markup.
First, there are the unique toppings: corn (this is fine, but Cheeseboard in Berkeley does it scores better), crumbled tortilla chips (definitely a new one), potato and bacon (odd), sour cream (bring on the chives for this baked-potato-on-top-of-dough hodgepodge), mayonnaise (...), and bulgogi (poor quality bulgogi does not give this one a fighting chance).
Second, Koreans have this thing with sweetening all breads. You would think that with all the fermentation required with kimchi that they would have a predilection for sourdough instead. Alas, the all-important pizza crust is Koreanized, too. Now, I have a notorious sweet tooth, but I also cherish pizza. And sometimes you want your loves separated because you know they would compete for your attention if presented to you simultaneously. This is such a case. The pastry scone crust, which comes with a candy-like strawberry dipping sauce makes me think I have entered a pizza twilight zone. It is just wrong. The pureed sweet potato in the crust is neither bad nor good, just a surprise.
I have not even gotten to the kimchi pastas. I am not a daring food superhero. I will not go there. When I come here (friends and family like this place, my grandmother LOVES it), I order the one with traditional toppings (olives, mushrooms, etc.). Like nearly everything that is hot, it tastes good. But, eat it fast because when it cools, the cheese crusts up and you can tell that it is not regular mozzarella. It is a tad sweeter and less gooey. Overall, it is edible like Papa Johns, but I would prefer to go to California Pizza Kitchen in a New York thin-crust minute.
Mr. Pizza Factory
3881 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90010
(213) 738-0077
http://www.mrpizza.co.kr/
Ronin Izakaya Bistro
The food at Ronin is essentially Western dishes with a few Eastern touches for window-dressing. Nothing tastes really Asian to me and, generally speaking, this conundrum is why I am not a big proponent of fusion. It ends up being neither/nor. In Ronin's case, we have okay, sometimes delicious, Westernized tapas. My main gripe is that there is no creativity with the juxtapositions, nor does it work in an ideal way where the arrangement of culturally divergent foods and seasonings allow the end result to be this highly palatable discovery. Granted, my rubric is not easy since I regard Nobu as the standard, but I never got graded on a curve in college, and think it is a crappy academic device that should be done away with.
One of the best items is the scrumptious taco shimi--a trio of seared tuna, chips, and avocado. Likewise, the lamb is well-seasoned and juicy. The garlic edamame that they bring out gratis is addictive.
On the other hand, the steak skewers are a bit overcooked and the pork is just tasteless. The agedashi tofu is unremarkable, as is the seafood carpaccio (not that fresh). As for the popular and praised cod with purple yam, I have had better cod, and the yam is tasty, but the pairing does nothing for my taste buds. The fried rice is fab, but is fairly child's play. I can place a sunny-side-up egg on my own fried rice. When it comes to the cake, presentation is cute, but it tastes oddly dense without being rich and the accompanying shots of vanilla milkshake are very watered-down. The yuzu custard is far from creamy, very flan-like (which I like, but they should rename it then), and the granita is lemon-flavored. Where is the yuzu?
They have sake, beer, and a nice malbec. Service is outstanding. I have nothing but praise for their professionalism and warmth. Decor is clean and minimalist.
Akira Kurosawa's Seven Samurai is thematically projected onto one side of the bistro. The film features ronin, masterless samurai who run the gamut of elder statesman to inspired youth, but only by coming together can they defend a community from outside bandits. I guess the ambition is to bring together a range of cultures to usher in a wonderfully distinct cuisine. Clearly, a lot of thought went into the place, which is admirable, but in the end, it is about how the food tastes.
Ronin Izakaya Bistro
359 N. La Cienaga Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 289-8404
The Lobster
The Lobster is seated on prime real estate. Almost every table is privy to a stunning view of the ocean, and if the time is right, one romantic sunset. If you want to propose to someone, do it here, but if your honey likes really good food, perhaps scoop her up and take her somewhere else for the eating part. :P Unfortunately, the quality of the seafood is just okay and does not even come close to matching the superb location. It is average at best, and over the years, I have tried nearly everything. Very strange to me, since the place not only has the brazenness to refer to itself as "The Lobster," but it is literally right by the shore.
The shrimp cocktail is unmemorable, as is the lobster cocktail. The portions are skimpy, too, even for cocktails. The crab cakes are solid. The sea bass is a snore--poorly seasoned, kind of dry, and a chore to finish.
Let's get down to brass tacks. How is their lobster? It is not their strong suit. It always comes out chewy and overbuttered. Overall, not good flavor. They really should subtract the word "Maine" from the menu because I have had lobster from Maine and this is NOT Maine lobster.
On a brighter note, they have quality Napa chardonnays that give it their all to make the chewy lobster slide down better.
The tables are so close together. It lends a feeling of cramped discomfort. The parking lot is bizarre. It is valet and the cars all disappear into who-knows-where. It takes a while to retrieve said car. A trendy place with great staying power, The Lobster is, in my view, overpriced for average seafood, especially, irony of all ironies, lobster.
The Lobster
1602 Ocean Ave.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
(310) 458-9294
http://www.thelobster.com/
Mr. Pizza Factory
Call me narrow-minded, but Koreans should not be making pizza. That is like Italians making kimchi jjigae. It sounds easy enough, since both items comprise of fairly simple ingredients, but if you are sensitive to what a killer pizza and a great kimchi jjigae can taste like, you would make this kind of transcultural activity criminal. As you can tell, I am not a fan of Mr. Pizza. I do not care for it when I am at the original location in Seoul near Ehwa University, and I certainly do not care for it when I am in the States with its shameless 50% markup.
First, there are the unique toppings: corn (this is fine, but Cheeseboard in Berkeley does it scores better), crumbled tortilla chips (definitely a new one), potato and bacon (odd), sour cream (bring on the chives for this baked-potato-on-top-of-dough hodgepodge), mayonnaise (...), and bulgogi (poor quality bulgogi does not give this one a fighting chance).
Second, Koreans have this thing with sweetening all breads. You would think that with all the fermentation required with kimchi that they would have a predilection for sourdough instead. Alas, the all-important pizza crust is Koreanized, too. Now, I have a notorious sweet tooth, but I also cherish pizza. And sometimes you want your loves separated because you know they would compete for your attention if presented to you simultaneously. This is such a case. The pastry scone crust, which comes with a candy-like strawberry dipping sauce makes me think I have entered a pizza twilight zone. It is just wrong. The pureed sweet potato in the crust is neither bad nor good, just a surprise.
I have not even gotten to the kimchi pastas. I am not a daring food superhero. I will not go there. When I come here (friends and family like this place, my grandmother LOVES it), I order the one with traditional toppings (olives, mushrooms, etc.). Like nearly everything that is hot, it tastes good. But, eat it fast because when it cools, the cheese crusts up and you can tell that it is not regular mozzarella. It is a tad sweeter and less gooey. Overall, it is edible like Papa Johns, but I would prefer to go to California Pizza Kitchen in a New York thin-crust minute.
Mr. Pizza Factory
3881 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90010
(213) 738-0077
http://www.mrpizza.co.kr/
Ronin Izakaya Bistro
The food at Ronin is essentially Western dishes with a few Eastern touches for window-dressing. Nothing tastes really Asian to me and, generally speaking, this conundrum is why I am not a big proponent of fusion. It ends up being neither/nor. In Ronin's case, we have okay, sometimes delicious, Westernized tapas. My main gripe is that there is no creativity with the juxtapositions, nor does it work in an ideal way where the arrangement of culturally divergent foods and seasonings allow the end result to be this highly palatable discovery. Granted, my rubric is not easy since I regard Nobu as the standard, but I never got graded on a curve in college, and think it is a crappy academic device that should be done away with.
One of the best items is the scrumptious taco shimi--a trio of seared tuna, chips, and avocado. Likewise, the lamb is well-seasoned and juicy. The garlic edamame that they bring out gratis is addictive.
On the other hand, the steak skewers are a bit overcooked and the pork is just tasteless. The agedashi tofu is unremarkable, as is the seafood carpaccio (not that fresh). As for the popular and praised cod with purple yam, I have had better cod, and the yam is tasty, but the pairing does nothing for my taste buds. The fried rice is fab, but is fairly child's play. I can place a sunny-side-up egg on my own fried rice. When it comes to the cake, presentation is cute, but it tastes oddly dense without being rich and the accompanying shots of vanilla milkshake are very watered-down. The yuzu custard is far from creamy, very flan-like (which I like, but they should rename it then), and the granita is lemon-flavored. Where is the yuzu?
They have sake, beer, and a nice malbec. Service is outstanding. I have nothing but praise for their professionalism and warmth. Decor is clean and minimalist.
Akira Kurosawa's Seven Samurai is thematically projected onto one side of the bistro. The film features ronin, masterless samurai who run the gamut of elder statesman to inspired youth, but only by coming together can they defend a community from outside bandits. I guess the ambition is to bring together a range of cultures to usher in a wonderfully distinct cuisine. Clearly, a lot of thought went into the place, which is admirable, but in the end, it is about how the food tastes.
Ronin Izakaya Bistro
359 N. La Cienaga Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 289-8404
The Lobster
The Lobster is seated on prime real estate. Almost every table is privy to a stunning view of the ocean, and if the time is right, one romantic sunset. If you want to propose to someone, do it here, but if your honey likes really good food, perhaps scoop her up and take her somewhere else for the eating part. :P Unfortunately, the quality of the seafood is just okay and does not even come close to matching the superb location. It is average at best, and over the years, I have tried nearly everything. Very strange to me, since the place not only has the brazenness to refer to itself as "The Lobster," but it is literally right by the shore.
The shrimp cocktail is unmemorable, as is the lobster cocktail. The portions are skimpy, too, even for cocktails. The crab cakes are solid. The sea bass is a snore--poorly seasoned, kind of dry, and a chore to finish.
Let's get down to brass tacks. How is their lobster? It is not their strong suit. It always comes out chewy and overbuttered. Overall, not good flavor. They really should subtract the word "Maine" from the menu because I have had lobster from Maine and this is NOT Maine lobster.
On a brighter note, they have quality Napa chardonnays that give it their all to make the chewy lobster slide down better.
The tables are so close together. It lends a feeling of cramped discomfort. The parking lot is bizarre. It is valet and the cars all disappear into who-knows-where. It takes a while to retrieve said car. A trendy place with great staying power, The Lobster is, in my view, overpriced for average seafood, especially, irony of all ironies, lobster.
The Lobster
1602 Ocean Ave.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
(310) 458-9294
http://www.thelobster.com/
Friday, December 18, 2009
Come Back To Me, Mama!
Boy, do I miss Mama's. It used to be called "Mama's on Washington Square," but I guess the owner changed it since people have always referred to it as "Mama's" (why state the obvious, right?). It was bloody long, which is what you will hear about the lines. They can go out the door, out of control. But, it is oh-so-worth it. The breakfast and brunch are outstanding. The portions are generous and the ingredients simply sing quality.
The eggs Benedict arrives like it is ready for a photo shoot for Bon Appetit. The hollandaise sauce is buttery smooth and creamy with a perfect swirl of tang. You can have it with Dungeness crab (rapturously good), prosciutto, smoked salmon, or shrimp.
The French toast is sinfully delicious, and among the best I have had. To have a bit of everything, try the French toast sampler. They offer Swedish cinnamon, chocolate cinnamon, cranberry orange walnut, and banana nut.
The kugelhuph is a Mama's specialty, thus a must-try. It is made of homemade brioche, chockful of plump golden raisins, dates, cinnamon, and almond slivers. They recommend you have it with their house-made preserves instead of maple syrup and they are spot-on. It brings out the fresh, autumnal flavors.
The menu is fraught with mouthwatering choices. You will stand there for a short eternity to go through the dizzyingly long list of omelettes. You can have buttermilk or dollar-size pancakes. Then there is the pain dore, which consists of apples sauteed in lemon butter sauce over slices of sourdough baguette. It is not as sweet as it sounds.
They also have scrumptious baked goods and pastries, like carrot cake, bagels, and all kinds of turnovers.
One of the standouts and a perennial favorite is the Monte Cristo. It is a sandwich done the French way. Great cuts of ham and gooey cheese grilled on slices of French toast dusted with powdered sugar. Served with fresh cranberry sauce, though it sounds a bit unusual, it is decadent, delicious, and its consumption will provide instant food coma.
It is best for a lazy Sunday lunch. If you are feeling ambitious, work off that sleepy-eyed satiety by trekking towards Coit Tower.
What is weekend brunch without a bloody Mary, screwdriver, or mimosa? Like everything else at Mama's, do not hold back. Try them all. The service is lovely and attentive. The owner walks around personally, checking to see if you need anything and replenishing coffee mugs. He is on Santa's "good list." He could earn a ticket to heaven if he refilled those cocktail glasses as well.
Mama's
1701 Stockton St.
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 362-6421
http://www.mamas-sf.com/
The eggs Benedict arrives like it is ready for a photo shoot for Bon Appetit. The hollandaise sauce is buttery smooth and creamy with a perfect swirl of tang. You can have it with Dungeness crab (rapturously good), prosciutto, smoked salmon, or shrimp.
The French toast is sinfully delicious, and among the best I have had. To have a bit of everything, try the French toast sampler. They offer Swedish cinnamon, chocolate cinnamon, cranberry orange walnut, and banana nut.
French toast sampler
The kugelhuph is a Mama's specialty, thus a must-try. It is made of homemade brioche, chockful of plump golden raisins, dates, cinnamon, and almond slivers. They recommend you have it with their house-made preserves instead of maple syrup and they are spot-on. It brings out the fresh, autumnal flavors.
The menu is fraught with mouthwatering choices. You will stand there for a short eternity to go through the dizzyingly long list of omelettes. You can have buttermilk or dollar-size pancakes. Then there is the pain dore, which consists of apples sauteed in lemon butter sauce over slices of sourdough baguette. It is not as sweet as it sounds.
pain dore
One of the standouts and a perennial favorite is the Monte Cristo. It is a sandwich done the French way. Great cuts of ham and gooey cheese grilled on slices of French toast dusted with powdered sugar. Served with fresh cranberry sauce, though it sounds a bit unusual, it is decadent, delicious, and its consumption will provide instant food coma.
Monte Cristo sandwich
It is best for a lazy Sunday lunch. If you are feeling ambitious, work off that sleepy-eyed satiety by trekking towards Coit Tower.
What is weekend brunch without a bloody Mary, screwdriver, or mimosa? Like everything else at Mama's, do not hold back. Try them all. The service is lovely and attentive. The owner walks around personally, checking to see if you need anything and replenishing coffee mugs. He is on Santa's "good list." He could earn a ticket to heaven if he refilled those cocktail glasses as well.
Mama's
1701 Stockton St.
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 362-6421
http://www.mamas-sf.com/
Absinthe and Art Deco Chic
The drinks are simply superb. It does not surprise me that they won Wine Spectator's 2009 Best of Award of Excellence. To begin, the bartenders are just a dream to work with--knowledgable, solicitous in the best way, and immaculately mannered. I never fail to tip them generously. The choices could rule the world--you have everything from the perkiest Champagne cocktails (they make a mean pear martini), velvety Ports and Madeira, age-old brandies, and an encyclopedic wine list.
The list of cheeses will make your mind reel and your palate as greedy as Enron, or to keep it current, Tiger Woods. :P They have everything from creamy chevre to intense blue to Swiss rarities. As a cheese lover, I can probably try the entire selection in lieu of a real supper (which they do offer). Wait, in France, I believe a simple meal can comprise of cheese and fruit... As I have always thought, nothing beats French avant-garde ideas (Enlightenment, French Revolution) and America should not snub their nose at them.
The desserts are marvelous. Some, like the Scharffen Berger chocolate pot de creme, are tailor-made for my perennial sweet tooth. The lavender creme brulee is intriguing with its waft of linen-clean lavender married to silky, sweet cream. Or, try the chocolate-banana tart which comes with warm caramel sauce. During my last visit, which was one month ago, I shared the olive oil ice cream garnished by cookie crumb crisp. Having no idea what to expect, it ended up being this very clean-tasting ice cream with a barely discernible nip of olive oil that lingered on the tongue. Its frosty texture was lighter than regular ice cream. Quite pleasant, actually.
Now, they are supposed to have a nice brunch, but I have never tried. Dinner, in my opinion, is good, but not great. Steak tartare is decent, but not the best I have had, although I will give them credit for putting a different twist on it by using a poached egg instead of raw, habanero instead of capers. The scallops and duck confit are tasty. Pork confit is okay (duck is much better) and the chicken is not only a snoring skip, the cranberry sauce tastes odd. With its seared exterior and heavy-set buns, the hamburger is not perfect, but it is nicely grilled with a mouthpuckering aioli.
No question, the winner is the French onion soup. One of the best I have had, it strides that delectable, yet oh-so-difficult (I have battled and surrendered to many French onion foes) balance of gooey cheesy and crisply baked. The cheese they use is unbelievable, melting in one's mouth like falling snowflakes.
With that, I will continue to view Absinthe as mainly a place for cheese, dessert, drinks... and that French onion. Moreover, I will only come here at off-peak hours from now on. My last visit was on a Saturday night after dinner for dessert and wine. Oh my goodness, it was a zoo! To my dismay, we had to sit outside (with the heat lamps, thank goodness), which was nice, but I missed the tres chic bar room.
The service is professional. I have come here dressed to the nines and more casual and, like most San Francisco establishments, they treat me with class and courtesy either way. The bar room will lure me back, as I like to be aesthetically pleased while I eat my cake. :)
Absinthe Brasserie & Bar
398 Hayes St.
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 551-1590
http://www.absinthe.com/
Kagaya: Shabu Shabu for Royalty
I am not the biggest meat eater (says she who had Korean barbeque just last night). Well, for Korean standards (says she who has eaten twice at a place called Animal). Okay, rewind. I will begin by stating that I flat-out LOVE shabu shabu. I love eating it in Japan, in San Fran, in L.A., love eating it at home with Mitsuwa premium cuts, love eating it with some slummin' Ranch 99 beef, and, oh, how I love eating it at Kagaya for the full royal treatment.
First of all, you cannot go wrong with any of the choices. Chef Masa's cutthroat high standards make sure of that. The regular beef is already lovingly tender. If you want a better cut--and it is definitely better--pay $60 more for Miyazaki wagyu. If you are a baller with peacock feathers, order the premium Miyazaki wagyu. :P The thing about the wagyu is that it is a decadent, melt-in-your-mouth cut, thus very, very filling in this sneaking-up-on-you, incremental way. I have tasted the premium wagyu and, honestly, I cannot tell the difference between the two wagyu cuts.
Generally, I am weirdly a beef only kind of shabu shabu gal (Chinese style hot pot freaks me out), but the seafood quality thanks to Masa-san who has some special connection with the downtown fish market (which, in turn, has a direct artery to Japan) has the "trust" stamp all over it (the ~$100 option). You have to see some of this crustacean. The king crab legs are humungous and the softest, sweetest meat slips out.
Shabu shabu is all about the quality of the ingredients and the very important dipping sauces. The ponzu--and, lord, do I love ponzu--is so freakin' good with this splash of citrus essence that makes my mouth water. The goma dare one is stellar, too, and everyone always gives the staff a hard time about its secret "peanut" recipe.
In addition to the above, you get two seasonal appetizers. I have had blue fin tartare (fantastic), deep-fried breaded ankimo (amazing), other carpaccios, sashimis, tempuras, and house-made tofu garnished with spicy daikon. They are all delicious with the best being the blue fin and ankimo. Next, they will present you with either perfectly fluffy chawanmushi or a soothing bowl of soup with a beautiful piece of fish. Third, you choose either udon or zosui (rice porridge that is made by cooking the rice in the very broth that you cook the vegetables and meat in). I always choose the zosui, as it really ties together the flavors of the meal in a brilliant way. It is also one of those savory comfort foods I loved while growing up and it is a real treat to have it expertly prepared right in front of you. Lastly, you select a dessert: green tea mousse (pretty good, but I have had better), creme brulee (nice!), or a banana crisp with banana ice cream (love, just perfect, perfect, perfect!).
A modest-sized restaurant, everything about the place bespeaks elegance. Service, manners, Masa-san's mannerisms, circumspection, impeccable ikebana, minimalist Japanese decor. I have not been here in ages, but now all I can think of are razor-thin slices of beef that disintegrate as they meet one's tongue.
Kagaya
418 E 2nd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 617-1016
kagaya.dla.menuclub.com
First of all, you cannot go wrong with any of the choices. Chef Masa's cutthroat high standards make sure of that. The regular beef is already lovingly tender. If you want a better cut--and it is definitely better--pay $60 more for Miyazaki wagyu. If you are a baller with peacock feathers, order the premium Miyazaki wagyu. :P The thing about the wagyu is that it is a decadent, melt-in-your-mouth cut, thus very, very filling in this sneaking-up-on-you, incremental way. I have tasted the premium wagyu and, honestly, I cannot tell the difference between the two wagyu cuts.
Generally, I am weirdly a beef only kind of shabu shabu gal (Chinese style hot pot freaks me out), but the seafood quality thanks to Masa-san who has some special connection with the downtown fish market (which, in turn, has a direct artery to Japan) has the "trust" stamp all over it (the ~$100 option). You have to see some of this crustacean. The king crab legs are humungous and the softest, sweetest meat slips out.
Shabu shabu is all about the quality of the ingredients and the very important dipping sauces. The ponzu--and, lord, do I love ponzu--is so freakin' good with this splash of citrus essence that makes my mouth water. The goma dare one is stellar, too, and everyone always gives the staff a hard time about its secret "peanut" recipe.
In addition to the above, you get two seasonal appetizers. I have had blue fin tartare (fantastic), deep-fried breaded ankimo (amazing), other carpaccios, sashimis, tempuras, and house-made tofu garnished with spicy daikon. They are all delicious with the best being the blue fin and ankimo. Next, they will present you with either perfectly fluffy chawanmushi or a soothing bowl of soup with a beautiful piece of fish. Third, you choose either udon or zosui (rice porridge that is made by cooking the rice in the very broth that you cook the vegetables and meat in). I always choose the zosui, as it really ties together the flavors of the meal in a brilliant way. It is also one of those savory comfort foods I loved while growing up and it is a real treat to have it expertly prepared right in front of you. Lastly, you select a dessert: green tea mousse (pretty good, but I have had better), creme brulee (nice!), or a banana crisp with banana ice cream (love, just perfect, perfect, perfect!).
A modest-sized restaurant, everything about the place bespeaks elegance. Service, manners, Masa-san's mannerisms, circumspection, impeccable ikebana, minimalist Japanese decor. I have not been here in ages, but now all I can think of are razor-thin slices of beef that disintegrate as they meet one's tongue.
Kagaya
418 E 2nd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 617-1016
kagaya.dla.menuclub.com
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